Review: Captain Tom's Seafood & Oyster Bar

Went to lunch with Big Kid Cousin on Friday. She is one of the Big Kids we little ones all worshiped back in the old days. (There are only about 7 years difference between us; what a difference a few more years can make, hunh?) After some discussion, we decided that we would try Captain Tom's Seafood & Oyster Bar on the East Freeway (13955 East Fwy [I-10], Houston, 713-451-3700).

I have wanted to eat there ever since I saw it being built, but never had the right company. BKC is seriously game for just about anything, and we toddled over after a midday matinee (oh, yes, go see Mamma Mia).

I did expect a somewhat nautical theme, since the building is shaped like a boat. I did not expect for the floor to slant as if we actually were on a boat. And the tables? What tables? The whole "boat" had a bar the went all the way around the outer perimeter of the, well, boat-shaped dining room, a fairly narrow aisle between the stools at the outer bar and those at the inner bar, and an inner bar that surrounded a well where you could watch oysters being shucked, drinks being prepared, and general mayhem.

To get served, you place an order at the cash register near the door, but you don't pay. Then you find yourself a bar stool. We managed to get two empty stools at the part of the perimeter bar that was clearly designed for standing and drinking; it was just a narrow shelf. In a very few minutes, we found two more empty bar stools a little further up the shelf in an area that was more suitable for dining. At the same time our drinks were passed from the inner well from server to fellow customer to us.

As we sipped and continued to rave about the movie, I got my bearings at the "table." A big pile of paper napkins, an open container of horseradish, several bottles of different brands of hot sauce (and ketchup), big bowl of sliced lemons, overflowing basket of saltine crackers. There was likely more, but I was beginning to get a "feel" for our upcoming dining experience.

In another short while, we found two stools at the inner bar and scrambled over. This allowed us to watch the show: three or four guys at a time shucking oysters, making drinks, taking orders on sticky notes, and keeping a lively movement going. We did our part by passing drinks and food over our shoulder to other diners.

When our food arrived (we both ordered Texas Minis), we each had 3 fried shrimp and 2 fried catfish fillets with a decent pile of french fries. Our plates came with little paper cups filled with tartar sauce and red sauce.

I prefer the red sauce, so I, of course, did not have enough. It was easy, however, to use the supplies at hand to mix up more. I only tasted the tartar sauce when everything else was gone and I was just absently stealing BKC's french fries for a nibble. We had to leave so I wouldn't start drinking the stuff; it was delish. As we left, we stopped by the cash register, reminded the fellow there about what we had ordered, and paid. No fuss, no muss.

As for our meal:

• The french fries were so so. If thinner and crisper, I would have liked them better, but Captain Tom would then have had to pay a royalty to McDonald's.
• The shrimp was so so. Butterflied, battered, fried--it had a taste that wasn't all shrimp. That didn't keep me from eating every bit, but I didn't think they were wonderful.
• The catfish was fine. Thin, crisp, battered with cornmeal. There was nothing outstanding there, but they certainly did no harm to the catfish (yes, you can cook catfish badly).

The prices were just fine. The service was friendly and fun. I liked the ambience, including the slanting floor and the challenge it presented for stool sitting. The food is good enough for a return.

Other reviews suggest that we missed a lot by not trying the gumbo or the raw oysters. I imagine that they are correct. I look forward to trying Captain Tom's again--soon.